Edinburgh, mid August, Freiburg, September 2013

Edinburgh, mid August; Freiburg September 2013

 Had a fascinating day. Went out to Heriot-Watt University and got a red carpet treatment; was given the keys to the Museum. "Not everyday you meet an ancestor of one of the founders of the University" , 25 pages of information on Robert Bryson and his sons Alexander and Robert Jr., both clockmakers and scientific instrument makers. Robert Bryson along with 2 others, started the idea of an Industrial Arts Center where poor apprentices could learn the math and science sufficient to be employed ( by people like Robert Bryson). Through his efforts and later his sons,  the Heriot Trust then the Watt trust were amalgamated and is now reckoned by students to be the best University in Scotland, 4th in the UK !
I have made an appointment to the Scottish Peoples Library tomorrow to find out more about Robert Bryson's children, one of whom was my triple great grandfather. Now, I'm off with Czerny. Have simplified the "bagger".  Now only a coat hanger with a bag held taut.  Works like a charm

 Tomorrow, I'm taking a train up to the top of Loch Ness to stay a Ian's cabin on the edge of a tidal river. He normally rents it, but as no one had booked it this week, at least until Saturday, he offered it to me; a nominal fee of 100 pounds. There are some small projects which I look forward to, but the rest of the time will be for exploring. A small town nearby, Beauly,  2 1/2 m away, has a railway station, so I plan to bicycle into town and go towards Mull. 

This evening, we ( Ian, Hillary and I), are listening to a jazz group playing Ellington's music. The band leader was Hollywood typecast, handsome devil in a tuxedo, hair slicked back and just the right curl of lip, inflection and raised eyebrow, bathed in a spotlight, knowing everybody was watching as he snapped his fingers or nodded approval. Some very lovely music; some ear cleaning noise. We sat around circular tables sipping wine. 

I spent the last 6 days in a small cottage on the banks of a tidal river somewhere west of Inverness. The train trip was through the Cairngorn National Park , stunning scenery of gently rolling , massive hills, denuded of trees but with a jig-saw pattern of mosses, heather and gorse up towards the bald rounded peaks. Isolation; no TV, no computer or functioning phone. The property needed some pruning, some branches cut and as I progressed, I discovered  ancient steps leading from the top of the bank down to the low tide water mark, and beyond into the river.  I  pulled up a tuft of broom and found a beautiful sandstone step. I probed and found another. Two days later I had uncovered the complete stairway, about 30 feet long, made by the ancient Ferryman so that his customers could arrive dry-shod on the steep bank. When the tide was ebbing, I swam. It was filmy and unpleasant at slack tide but once it started running, it was clear. I had brought enough food for 2 meals a day and didn't bicycle into the nearby town but once and then only to buy an extension pruning saw with lopper attachments and some eggs.   At first I was cautious as to what I cut, but the more I looked at the hedges blocking the view of the river, the more I wanted to clear them , and the more abandoned I became. In the end, I cleared most of the obstructing branches, cut down some small trees and would, if I had the proper equipment, have gotten rid of everything blocking the view. I'll leave that to Ian.
Days and nights I watched the tides come in, (almost 12 feet from low to high) ; at low you heard the river rippling down a sheet of rapids, at high, the river was silent,  a mirror reflecting the trees and mountains.

I returned to Edinburgh in time to meet David, Hillary's second son, an industrial designer. I suggested he make his fortune on the doggie turd bagger and we discussed various possibilities. Perhaps he will.

Carol's devastating news about Alec's sudden return into extreme care at his hospital took my breath away. He dropped me at the railway station not 3 weeks ago, a smile a handshake, a scratch on the back;  "Come back, soon". Now he's hanging by a thread..... I feel as though I can't be any help to Carol as I would likely become another burden. I can't drive, don't know where things are and will intrude on her tangled thoughts. He's in a Hospice now.

I didn't visit Alec in the hospital;  I want to remember him as I do, not putting on a brave face, not struggling , without tubes. 

My flight to Basel was uneventful.  Hannes met me at the airport; we went immediately to his Gym and the Wednesday evening club for water exercises. Under the guidance of a skilled trainer, we ran and jumped and thrashed in the water for the next 90 minutes. Initially I thought I wouldn't be able to keep up but I did and, the following morning I felt no worse for the effort !

Hannes has bought a motorcycle, the same model he bought when he was 18, a  XT 550 red and white, Yamaha,   beautifully restored, probably in better condition than a new one. We drove to Umkirch, maybe 10 miles, in 65 degree weather. I haven't often been on the pillion and didn't find it comfortable. Can't see anything but the back of the driver's helmet and slowly you find your seat is vanishing as the driver pushes back. However, another neat experience.

On Saturday, Sept 30, Bernd, Katha, Charlie and I drove to Fredrickshaven for Eurobike the largest convention of anything bicycle I ever seen. E Bikes, electrified bicycles were in vogue and almost every manufacturer had one on offer. Basically, they ensure that the rider can climb hills effortless at about 25 km so you arrive at your destination without a sweat. They make no noise, are allowed on all bicycle trails and are sticker-shock priced; anywhere from 2000 to 6000€ !  More that I've paid for most of my cars.

The weather in Freiburg for the past few days has been remarkable;  in the low 70ies, views forever of the Black Forest and the Voges in France. I walked for miles with B & K around Schallstadt. At one point i noticed 2 ultralight, parachute trikes flying towards the Kaiserstuhl.  I was thinking I might be able to convert my hard wing to a parachute. I'll try to find their airport.

Monday I picked Walter up from his apartment and went off for a drive and dinner in some of the old haunts. We wound up at the Rhine, tried unsuccessfully to find a restaurant high in the vineyards but none-the-less had a delicious supper together. He tires easily and doesn't walk very far without "admiring the view". I think he's in good spirits. Elka is amazed that he agreed to join me  again to day to go the model airplane club airfield this morning; got out of bed early, was ready long before I arrived. I guess he just needs a little stimulation.

Had a great golf outing with Bernd. Kataha had the beginnings of a cold , didn't join us, so we promised we'd shoot some pars in her honor. In fact we did; 6 or 7 between us, but also a few 8's due to zig-zag putting.

Luis has grown about 6 " since I saw him last year, now as tall, perhaps taller than Hannes. He came back from a 2 week trip to NJ staying with the  Pagliente's full of everything American. His English is very good and improving daily. He has to give a 10 minute speech in English and has decided to talk about Motocross , pros and cons. He should easily ace the exam as he is knowledgeable and passionate about motor cycles. He just turned 16 !

Kataha and I drove to Baden-Baden about 100 km N of Freiburg. The radio was warning of a major Traffic jam so we got off the Autobahn and took a ferry across the Rhine into Alsace, and continued N on the French side arriving a little late. Others who were caught on the Autobahn had hours to endure stop and go, something like a 16 km "Stau".  We went to see work by Emil Nolde (1867 -1956) an important expressionist artist who's use of primary colors, and globs of them produced a striking effect, particularly when seen from a distance. Up close, his painting seemed out of focus; like scene painting, they got better the further away you were. I found  his paintings of angry seas emotionally accurate, dangerous mountains of water and foam. His early painting of Swiss mountain spirits were amusing and very appealing. Seems he made enough money selling post cards of these images to allow him to freelance and concentrate on his art. He was prolific; an artist I'd never heard of before. The trip back also had the Autobahn backed up. Once again we drove through the countryside and came home safe.