Saturday, January 29, 2011

Another week on the Big Island, Jan 24- Jan 29

I've made a few things from Hawaiian wood and have been meeting carvers and turners on the Big Island. Two guys have been generous with their time, both excellent artists. Dan DeLuz, who doesn't seem to have a web site but is a very well known artist, a 76 year old turner who has turned about 60 different types of wood. He let me into his inner sanctum, a barn removed from his gallery to drool over bowls from 30" to 4" wide , up to 24 " high, each engraved with the type of wood from which it was made. Incredibly knowledgeable about the qualities and idiosyncrasies of each. Blow your mind how many fantastic colors and grains exist, but my favorite comes to KOA which shimmers as you rotate it in light ( like diffraction on vinyl records), with colors from light tan to deep orange and dark brown . Martin Hopman, another older fellow, mph13@hawaii.rr.com, gave me samples of 10 or so different woods describing each as I tested them with a blade. ( what's Happened to the font?) . I' will ship most of this home as folks in NZ don't allow anything into the country that doesn't already exist there. I was told it's likely they'll take my Uke . Oh well !!!

I'm couchsurfing. Fascinating concept. Check it out (Couchsurfing.org). Sort of what you do with friends in Belmar at your place. People all over the world host travelers , sometime on a couch, but more likely on a bed, after checking out the profile of the surfer requesting a couch and determining whether they want to invite them to stay. At the moment, I'm with a guy named Robert Lee, a retired 66 year old machinist/jeweler. He epitomizes the character of CS host, welcoming, non-judgmental, who has thought out of the needs of his potential guests.( towels. sheets, pillows, ) and besides a queen size bed in a separate room, he has a flip-down futon, a blow up mattress and sleeping bags. My first night I was invited to a delicious supper. One of his guest left a not saying that he was" the GOD" of couchsurfing. His response, " Claims of deity can often be misleading". Since then , I've made breakfasts. A couple of Vancouver " Woofers " have been sharing his place during the past few days that I've been in Hilo. I've enjoyed meeting them as their attitude is so fresh, open-minded and more mature than one generally finds in mid 20 year old folk. Both are beautifully tattooed, all over, and he sports 1" diameter ear holes rimmed in silver. She is a song-writer, poet who works along side her partner, a guy learning about farming by working on different types of farms, wherever they go. Curiously, he's the splitting image of one of my UW teaching assistants of 40 years ago! He says he figures it's a better way of learning than the book learning offered in Universities.

Yesterday, we hiked across Kilauea IKI, ( means small, Kilauea itself is much bigger and full of orange, bubbling stuff ), a volcano that exploded some 30 years ago. I expected conditions in this 1/2 mile wide bowl to be hot. It was overcast and misting so almost no other tourists on the 5 mile loop. Easy ,gentle, switchbacks from the crater edge down to the floor and temperatures seemed to be dropping! Once out of the jungle, a moon scape of huge cow flaps of lava mixed in with sharp , frothy "AA" which will cut you, quick, if a leg inadvertently touches it. The sun came out for most of our 45 minute transit across the floor but winds of 30-40 mph tore at what little clothing we were wearing. Then it started to mist and temperature dropped to about 50 degrees causing shivers and thoughts of warmer dress. ( It was probably 70 on the rim. ) We began the gradual climb back up the other end of the loop and , once out of the wind and walking in the tropical jungle, temps returned to normal. I had imagined the complete reverse. While crossing, my feet were warm and if you put your hand on the hardened lava, it was probably 110 F. All across the bowl, vents of steam hissed steamy hot air. Rangers had warned us that if you smell rubber, someone's shoes are melting. 30 minutes prior to this hike we had scramble through a lave tube created by molten lava evacuating a hardening tunnel. This one was about 10 feet high and maybe 15 feet wide, 1/2 mile deep. The first 1/4 mile was poorly illuminated, whereby one stepped in puddles of condensate because you couldn't see them. The second was pitch dark, only illuminated by head lamps worn by my Canadian friends throwing light as though following a train into infinity. Really cool. No one else in this tube and the floor was practically as good as floated concrete. Here and there the tube dropped a few feet and finally petered out into a solid wall. Returning to Hilo, we stopped for a coffee at Dan's and I introduced them to him and his work. ( Only way I'm going to be able to sculpt Hawaiian wood is to come here and stay for a few months. Amazing. There are trees here that grow to 80' high , 8' diameters, in 45 years because of the sun and steady rainfall.)

I spent a day knocking about Hilo, a town of about 45,000 people spread on the windward side of Kilauea. Buildings are in the older, 20-30ies style which I find appropriate for a tropical island. I visited the Capital Theater, 1925, which is in remarkably good condition having been spared the tsunami that devastated the same half of the city in the 40ies and the 60ies. On Sunday "The Tempest" will be shown, filmed on the Big Island , starring Helen Mirren as Prospera, directed by Julie Taymor, (who I've met occasionally over the years, Heather & Marla will remember the "Transposed Heads " on Off-Off B'way) . She also directed "Lion King" and is now trying to unravel the 65 million dollar musical, "Spiderman". Went to a number of galleries and , of course stopped into most of the second hand and thrift stores. I found two superb carvings, one of lion, the other a Scandinavian King which will be mailed home before I leave for Honolulu on Monday ( to make my connection to Auckland.) I'm stoked. Will concentrate on being prompt and not missing my flight. All best wishes, Dad, Nick, Dadadski.

Hawaii Jan 19 - Jan 26, 2011‏

Had a great time with Jenny & Greg in Hawi (friends of Hank and Marla's). First day I spent fixing stuff around their house, broken kitchen cabinet, sharpen a machete, add new handles, sharpen kitchen knives, and then then the rain stopped and I decided to clear out an over-grown section by the drive with the machete. Soon, I realized I could pull plants out by the roots. Worked for a few hours and got bushed; but then... I found a wooden carving, probably Central American of a God with a Quetzal headdress and made of what looked like Koa, 9 " high, rotting in the undergrowth. Got out the carving knives and in a couple of hours had re-carved it. One arm was in need of repair and the bird's body need attention. I didn't take a picture but it sits on the counter at their house. Since Jenny made a lovely supper Wednesday night, I took them to the Bamboo restaurant in Hawi, and we all had Local Pork and cabbage. As usual, enough for the next day, too. Delicious.
Friday, I had a massage with Michelle, who we met at Anna's Ranch. She told us she used to work with large cats...up to twenty lions and tigers. Massage was super, very strong, not surprising as she had to physically move the adult tigers, and thorough. I felt like jelly and she suggested I stop eating all wheat because she says type O neg should eat meat and nuts, etc; hunter gatherers. "Eat right 4 your blood type", a book outlining her thoughts. I explored around and when I got back to Greg and Jenny's, perhaps 3:30 found a note inviting me to a party with their friends in Waikoloa !
Super party of about 20 people hosted by a Realtor lady, Jan, who Jenny says is her adopted mother. Charming, nice lady. First thing I saw was a large, 4 foot high, carving of a headless mermaid; sister to Winged Victory. I showed her my carving and we had an instant connection. Excellent pupus and great conversation, especially with Rob, an older guy who was just off to Christmas Island for bone fishing. He'd been 3-4 time to New Zealand, (told me me felt boots would never pass NZ customs so I gave them to Greg) but made all the right noises about trout. He guides in South Alaska.
Sat: Jenny, Greg & I went down to a surfing beach south of Hapuna Beach. Incredible waves and hairy entrance to the water. Greg slipped out of his flip flops and carrying his board, crept over a'a lava to meet the rising water. With perfect timing, he glided onto the top of the surging waves and was immediately paddling out to 12 - 14 foot waves. J & I watched from a shaded spot. Jacob joined us a bit later and gave us a blow by blow on Greg's style. (Whole 'nother language!) About noon we started for Hilo to pick up Jenny's new Toyota 4 wheel. Stopped in Waimea for lunch and got to the dealer maybe 2:30. Neat drive, good clear weather and certainly tropical. I said "thanks and goodbye" after a fun check-out drive with the sales agent. Went looking for a used book store to buy the above book. Closed, but next door to a cool gallery run on a Co-op basis. Good Koa Carvings

I've joined a group called couchsurfers.com and my first stay was interesting. I drove up to Samantha Jone's Jungle Rabbit Farm in the rain. Hard to find down a road spaced with lava tubes and so a super uppy-downy roller coaster drive. About dusk I found her and heard dogs barking. She opened her gate and with a big smile welcomed me to what I can describe as a soggy Scout camp, corrugated and tarp on the roof, open on the sides, shed. She has two Chicago wwoof-ers (willing workers on organic farms) staying with her who had tightened up the tarps, but water was still pouring into the kitchen area. I found a ladder and approached the problem differently, from the inside of the building instead of outside and in a while the water was flowing (mostly) where it should. She actually had a couch, nice long thing with good support. However, the back cushions were being used by the boys as extra padding for a bed. I brought an old sheet with me which Jenny said I could have and after a glass of wine and some conversation, (she was a fire dancer in vaudeville type shows across US in the 60 and 70ies), settled down for the night. Incredible noises from the jungle, peeper frogs forever, night birds, and groans from Samantha's dog, Twinkle toes, who had been hit by a car a few days ago and was convalescing. Rain pouring on the roof like Monte Verde, night as black as Ink and amazingly cold. My sheet certainly wasn't warm enough and I didn't get up to do anything about it. Silly bugger! Samantha came to wake me in the morning, noticed I was shivering and threw an Afgan over me. Felt real good.

A neighbor, Alaska Bob, came over complaining about a hitch hiker he had picked up. Seems they had been drinking together. This guy got really drunk and Bob decided to ask him to leave. He was pretty drunk, too. The conversation heated up and Bob decided to show how pissed off he was by slamming his fist into the wall, which broke his little finger. He was in a sling and so he could not physically throw the guy out. Did I mention they both had gotten their plumbers journeyman license in jail and likely had outstanding issues. Anyway, Bob wanted the two wwoof-ers, Mitch and Len and me to threaten this guy who was wrecking his shack and wanted to kill him. Bob was extremely stressed, so I tried to cool him down. I suggested we call the police which he wasn't so keen to do. Finally, Samantha joined in and he finally agreed we should call them.

The wwoofers and I took off for Kilauea and went up to the crater. Fascinating stuff. A ranger gave us the poop on what we were seeing and I won't repeat it, but it was "awesome". We walked around the edge of the crater and experience the steaming air coming out of vents. Sizzlingly hot, instantly. Hotter than steam. We hiked down into the lava tube caves, lighted, 15' in diameter and about 1/4 mile long. Mitch and Ken had flashlights and so continued another 1000 feet. The ranger had told us that dramatic views of live lava could be seen if we drove down to the coast some 50 miles away. We arrived as the sun set and with about 200 others we walked 1/2 mile to be met by a closed road where last week a house had been munched and he was pouring water into cracks to show how hot the lava still was; it came out as steam, instantly. As dark fell, we could see what appeared to be tail-lights on the hill sides, some 1/2 mile away. Not overly dramatic but it's supposed to be a crap-shoot. Some days you see the real stuff, We didn't that night.
We returned to hear that both characters had been arrested; that the problem was more or less the same as both had come up with bail. Glad we didn't get involved with violent drunks. I awoke next morning and made breakfast and then gave Samantha the walking stick I carved. She was ecstatic. I enjoyed my time with her and the wwoofers. Really primitive but simple life style. Before I left I had a shower, water heated by a propane demand heater. Her water comes off the roof and is kept in 55 gal barrels, which is filtered for drinking. All other washing needs are rain water. Hot dish water comes from the shower. The toilet is a 5 gal bucket. Newspaper and moss is spread over each dump. Then, when the bucket is nearly full, it is composted. I slept 15 feet away and there was no odor.

Now I'm living in Hilo with Robert Lee in a comfortable house and sleeping on a double futon with a couple of Canadians, Jan & Jay from Vancouver Island, who work farms around the island. Bob introduced me to Martin Hopman, a generous woodworker who gave me an hour learning about Hawaiian woods. He gave me samples which I'll send home. I also met Dan DeLuz and we chatted about his carvings and bowls. I'm going back tomorrow to watch him work. He has some very unusual tools and I'm sure I will enjoy it. Anyway, soup is ready. With luck , I'll try to put up some pictures. All best wishes, Nick aka Dadadski

Hawaii December 25, 2010 - January 13, 2011

Been here on the Big Island of Hawaii since Christmas Day when Heather & I flew from Philadelphia," got outta' town" only just missing the first Mondo Snow Storm of the season; 30" in a day, which promptly screwed all travel on the East Coast. We were so relieved, relaxed in Phoenix our transfer point to Kona, that our connecting plane took off without us! Bugger !, US Air saved our bacon by immediately putting us on a flight to Honolulu connecting to Kona, so we arrived only 3 hours later than scheduled. A half hour drive from the airport through a desert of lava fields stretching to the far distant volcano hills; signs indicating, "Feral Donkeys in the next 5 miles", and a twisty road rising 800 feet brought us to Wiakoloa Greens Village, an oasis of condo's surrounding a lush golf course and our headquarters until January 18th.
A week earlier, Marla, Hank, Niah had come from Fairbanks, AK. Trudy & Larry, from Phoenix, AZ. Our Christmas tree was a plastic repro of some tropical bush; however, covered with beads, ornaments and ribbon taken from opened presents, it looked perfect. Niah was the center of attention. She's bright-eyed and bushy tailed, curious about every little thing. At 10 months old she complains when her pants are full and her belly is empty. Otherwise, she's a joy. Like the knights who said " NeH", Niah says," Neh". Marla insists she is blowing kisses and saying "Meh" , but I know a Neh from a Meh. She also clucks her tongue and claps her hands and somehow seems much older.
Every day we have visited Kona beaches which are amazingly various and worth exploring; some sandy, most lava enclosed with coral under crystal water, no seaweed or lichen on the black rocks; occasionally, sweeping, mile-long curves, fringed with coconut palms. The more difficult the trail to the beach, the less crowded. We have purposely chosen less crowded and thus have usually hiked 1/2 hour or more across old, open lava fields. Some look like huge cow flops , undulating to the horizon; others are like sharp splintered glass where one touch will rip the skin and blood will flow. I find these to be exciting; the possibility of injury keeps the senses alert while the coarse, gravel-like pathway along the Kings trail, a 175 mile path connecting ancient villages, massages the feet.
A typical day starts about 8 am with a hearty breakfast when we decide what we're going to do that day. Tourist books and brochures are consulted while Heather & Marla begin a production line making sandwiches and snacks for lunch. Let's say " Ke-awa-iki" beach. To get there you have to park on the highway and walk on a 30" wide, crushed, lava trail for 1/2 hour before coming to the "smashing surprise" of ocean waves tumbling down a black sand and gravel beach. Then skirt a stretch of private land on mini pebbles, sloping 45 degrees to the water with irritating, bits catching under sandals every few steps. We watched a pod of whales surfacing and swimming in a large circle. Must have been 20 as spouts originated from different places simultaneously. Hank was carrying Niah in a backpack with a 'Howdah" like canopy and she was checking everything along the trail, occasionally vocalizing in pleasure at what she saw. Steve Sweet, one of Hank's good friends from Fairbanks had joined us. Beach mats and snorkel equipment, water , Niah's accouterments , spare nappies and so on are stuffed into knapsacks and unpacked under a shady tree only yards from a quiet tide pool. There's only one other couple on the beach who tell us the snorkeling is excellent just outside the breakwater, past the dark lava where turtles have pulled out to sunbathe.
I brought my carving knives and bought a pruning saw so, while others are reading/swimming/snoozing, I check out downed trees and driftwood for twisty burls or unusual grain of which the shoreline is amply provided. It's likely poor Heather will return to Philly with almost another suitcase of treasures as I'm going on to New Zealand for a couple of months with only a small suitcase. If I find any more wood we'll be at the Post Office shipping it home. Likely, as Hank gave Heather a goat, ram's skull that he found a few days before Christmas on a jogging trail near our Condominium and she definitely wants to send it home. Today she found another skull, looks like a sea gull, lovely curved beak.
During my exploration for wood at Ke-awa-iki beach, I found a four-wheel drive road across the undulating lava flops ,( there must be a scientific name?), and so the return to the car was not as difficult as going. We carry about 5 liters of water which is usually gone by the time we get back to the car. Temperatures on the ancient lava, especially when there is no breeze, makes one thirsty.
Home by 5:30 tanned, tired and hungry. After a shower, Big Island Micro-brewed beer all around and as we have a gas grill, supper is often steak or local fish combined with a large fresh salad. By 8:30 everyone is heading for bed, ostensibly to read but within a few minutes lights go out and we're asleep until next morning. ( Except Marla & Niah & Hank who wake every few hours to feed.) Hard work living in the Tropics. Love and all best wishes, Nick
P.S. Happy New Year ! If you know any friends or family in New Zealand and wish me to be your ambassador ? please forewarn them and copy me. .... 6 degrees of separation, or so they say.
Marla has set up a photo gallery which can be accessed by clicking on : http://picasaweb.google.com/hank.stats/Hawaii_2010